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Visiting Cemeteries in Istanbul

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Hi, I'm visiting Istanbul in July for 12 days. In addition to the regular sites, I have always had a fascination for cemeteries. I see there is a huge cemetery in Uskudar. Any suggestions for other cool cemeteries? Cemetery visiting etiquette?

The other thing I have tried to find are subterranean tours other than the Basilica Cistern and one other large cistern. Anyone know a high level sewer worker who could give me a tour?

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There are lots of interesting cemeteries all over istanbul. Try to get a copy of Strolling through Istanbul by Freely and Sumner-Boyd, describes everything in fantastic detail. As I recall chapter 17 on the Land Walls gives a lot of interesting info about the cemeteries you pass.

I think there are a couple of very large and interesting cemeteries, on Rum, one Jewish, by Belgrade Gate. The Church connected to the Greek one is also interesting, make sure you go down to the crypt where there is an ayazma (Spring) with fish swimming in the pool. The graves from late Ottoman times have the photos of the occupants engraved on the stone.

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