Alanya, Turkey

Beautiful beaches, ancient history,
and vibrant night life make Alanya
a popular travel destination.

Driving east from Antalya and Side on the D-400 coastal road, you'll enter a more mountainous region called "Rough Cilicia" in ancient times because of its rugged terrain. Banana plantations and fruit orchards will welcome you along the highway, since the area where Alanya is situated is the only place in Turkey where bananas are grown. You'll soon notice the Alanya fortress, which juts both seaward and skyward on a coastal promontory.

Because of it's strategically advantageous geography, especially the high promontory which juts out into the sea, Alanya has been home to civilizations including the Ptolemaic, Seleucid, Roman, Byzantine, Seljuk, and Ottoman empires. In recorded history, Alanya came to prominence under the Seljuks, when the Seljuk Sultanate of Rum under Alaeddin Keykubad I, built it into a fortified city, as well as a center of trade and culture. At that time the city was re-named Alaiye, or "Ala's city," after the Sultan.

The Names of Alanya

A monument to Ataturk,
the founder of modern
Turkey

Alanya was first called in Latin, "Coracesium," and in Greek, "Korakesion," meaning "protruding city." The Byzantines called it "Kalonoros," or "Kalon Oros," meaning "beautiful mountain" (also in Greek). Under the Seljuks, it was called "Alaiye," after the Seljuk sultan who took control of it.

After Turkey's war of independence, there began a project to change the names of various Turkish cities to bring them under the dictates of the Turkish language. While passing by Alaiye on a ship bound elsewhere, Ataturk received a telegram from the officials of Alaiye, offering their good wishes to him. Because the telegraph transmission had to be routed through a few stations before Ataturk received it, someone made a mistake in the transmission. An aide pointed out to Ataturk that the name "Alaiye" had been mistakenly spelled as "Alanya." Coincidentally, the mistake fit the dictates of the Turkish language. So Ataturk proclaimed that "Alanya" would become the city's new name.

The Byzantine Church of Saint
George, later converted to a
Mosque, still stands inside the
fortress walls.

More recently, Alanya has changed from a small, remote seaside village to a booming package holiday resort, now making up around ten percent of Turkey's incoming tourism industry. This is due, in large part, to the completion of the Antalya airport and the building of highways into Alanya, as well as the modernization of the city and the Alanya museum. Besides clean, white-sand beaches, Alanya's main attraction in it's ancient fortress complex which overlooks the sea, city, and mountains, its walls winding through the terrain as if still keeping watch for invading armies. Alanya is home to mostly local inhabitants, but Europeans who either live there year-round or visit during the summers make up an appreciable percentage of the population, having bought villas or flats there.

Most of Alanya's main streets
run parallel to the beaches. Many
streets in the shopping areas
have been pedestrianized.

Orientation

Alanya is divided, east and west, by the promontory on which the fortress sits. While it may not be the best-planned city in Turkey, it's far better than some of the other seaside villages which suddenly became tourism havens and suffered from unplanned and uncontrolled development. The best landmark in Alanya is the fortress, since you can see it from just about anywhere you are.

The major street in Alanya is Ataturk Bulvari, which ends at a roundabout and then continues east as Ahmet Tokus Bulvari. At this roundabout is the closest thing you'll find to a "town square." There you'll find a large monument to Ataturk, with a stone-paved parade ground around it. On the Western side, the best landmark is probably the museum. Although not visible for miles, it's easy to find considering the number of signs pointing the way to it.

How to Get to Alanya

Alanya's inter-city bus station is
conveniently close to the
Western beaches.

By Bus

Several bus companies provide service to Alanya from most cities in Turkey. The Alanya inter-city bus station, or "otogar," is on the Western side of the city, three kilometers from town center on Ataturk Bulvari. It is near the Western beach. From the otogar, you can take a dolmus to just about anywhere in the city. Just look at the placard in the window of the dolmus for its destinations. If you're light on luggage, you can walk along the western beach and seaside parks. It will take you about 20 minutes to reach city center. The main city bus station, and dolmus station are in the same place, at the main bazaar, just north of Ataturk Caddesi.

By Air

Most travelers come to Alanya from the Antalya, usually from Antalya International Airport. It's the closest Airport to Alanya. Besides renting a car, some hotels offer transfers from Antalya airport for a fee. There are buses which will take you to the bus station on the east side of Antalya for parts west (including Alanya), but make sure you let them know that you're going to Alanya so they don't take you to the bus station on the west side of the city. You can find a bus to the "dogu" (dough-ooh) or eastern terminal by asking at the information desk or at the curbside where the buses pull up. Once you get to the eastern terminal, you'll find several different bus companies offering trips to various cities in Turkey on impossible-to-miss signs. Find the one with the route to Alanya and get your bus ticket there.

By Car

You'll more than likely be entering Alanya from the east or west on the coastal highway, D-400, which offers some lovely views of the sea and seaside. You can then continue on D-400 around the city, on a road called Cevre Yolu Caddesi, or take Ataturk Bulvari or one of the other main streets into town. The main streets in Alanya all seem to run roughly east to west parallel with the coastline. Parking can be found either on side streets, if you're willing to walk some distance, or you can park in one of many car parks or along the main streets by paying a traffic warden who is sure to run up and collect the fee. Do not park illegally, since your car may be impounded and taken to a lot some distance away. Not only will you have to find out, from the police station or a local merchant where your car is, but you'll have to get there and pay a steep fine to get your car back.

By Ferry

Hydrofoils arrive and depart from the Alanya ferry port, or "ferribot iskele," to and from Girne, in Northern Cyprus. The ferry company which provides this service is Fergun Denizcilik, at the harbor, Tel: (242) 511 5358. You can find schedules online at www.fergun.net/Seferlerimiz_TR.aspx. The schedules and prices are not in English, but they're not difficult to figure out. "tek yon" means "one way," "gidis" means "departure," and "donus" means "return."

Taxis in Alanya

As in most Turkish cities, taxis are plentiful and cheap. One word of warning, however. If you take a taxi, make sure the taxi driver runs the meter before starting out. Ignore any pleas by the taxi driver about the trip costing more than is on the meter. The author encountered several instances of taxi drivers brazenly trying to take advantage, moreso than in other Turkish cities.

Peacocks strut in front of the
Alanya Archaeology Museum,
which is well worth seeing.

Alanya Museum

Located on Bebek Sokak, the Alanya Museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9:00 AM to Noon, and 1:30 to 7:30 PM. Even if you're not an ancient history buff, the Alanya museum is worth the entry fee and the time. At its entrance, you'll be greeted with a pleasant garden, a few chickens, and a pair of strutting peacocks. In the garden are various remains of Roman statues, Islamic tomb stones, Ostotheks, and old cannons and cannonballs, as well as an old olive press and other implements of trade.

The interior of the museum is divided into archaeological and ethnographic sections. The first exhibits contain small collections of relics from the Hatti and Urartian civilizations found in the area, coins from Ancient Coracesium, Side, and Antalya, as well as various amphorae and vases. Most noteworthy are the collections of statues, including one of Hercules over a mosaic depicting the three graces from ancient Syedra. At least two ancient inscriptions are translated, including a Phoenician proclamation and a marble letter of congratulations from an emperor to the people of Syedra. There is also a nearly-intact bronze military discharge for a Roman soldier, granting him Roman citizenship for his years of service, and recognizing his marriage to a local woman under Roman law. The ethnographic section of the museum displays carpets, kilims, weapons, manuscripts, clothing and uniforms, and has reconstructions of scenes from Ottoman times. (see photos)

Ataturk's house

Open from 8:30 to Noon, and 1:00 PM to 5:00 PM Tuesday through Sunday. Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the founder of Modern Turkey, visited Alanya on 18 February 1935, and slept in a house on Ayaklar Sokak (off of Fatih Mehmet Caddesi). The owner of the house willed it to the Ministry of Culture, which turned it into a museum.

Tourism Office

Located on Kale Arkasi Caddesi, across from the Museum. From April to October, the tourism information office is open daily from 9:00 AM to Noon, and from 1:00 PM to 5:30 PM. From November to March, it's open Monday through Friday from 9:00 AM to Noon, and from 1:00 PM to 5:30 PM. Don't expect to find much information in the English language there. You'll find a smaller, but more helpful information office next to the police station.

Festivals

The Alanya Tourism and Cultural Festival opens Alanya's tourism season. It takes place at the end of May or beginning of June every year.

The International Culture and Art Festival takes place in the first week of October.

Alanya Jazz Days takes place in September or October of every year, near the Kizil Kule (Red Tower). It features Turkish and International musicians who perform free concerts.

Ataturk's visit to Alanya is celebrated every February 18th, and mostly centers around Ataturk's house and Museum.

Shopping

Alanya is chock-full of shops offering leather apparel, souvenirs, ceramics, jewelry, and other items popular with tourists. Unfortunately many of them all sell the same things. Fake products are overwhelmingly plentiful, so don't expect to be buying the real thing unless you're in a regular chain store in a proper shopping mall. Practically all shops and restaurants in Alanya accept Euros, so you may not even need to exchange your money. Be prepared to haggle over the price. Many of the shopkeepers quote prices above what they will sell for.

Damlatas Shopping Center is located near the museum, between Ataturk Bulvari and Damlatas Caddesi. There is also a Migros shopping center to the east, just outside of town along the Eastern Beach highway.

Bananas which aren't imported
come from the Alanya area. Try
one when you're in Alanya .

Weekly Market

The Alanya market takes place on Fridays, next to the Dolmus Station, just north of Ataturk Caddesi and east of Bostanci Pinar Caddesi. The bus station is also in that area, as is a mosque. You'll find the Alanya bazaar marked on the Alanya map.

Since Alanya is famous for locally-grown bananas, you'll see them sold in various markets, and even at mobile stands. Try one - they're smaller, and sweeter than the bananas you're probably used to.

Accommodation

There are plenty of hotels in Alanya, and rooms are easy to find. If you want to be near the beaches, look for a place along Meteoroloji Sokak, which runs parallel to the Western Beach and is next to the bus station. Hotels on the Easter beaches are more upmarket and expensive, and are usually the destination for package holiday makers. These are located along Keykubat Caddesi which runs parallel to the Eastern Beach (Alanya hotels).

Dining and Night Life

The James Dean Bar on the
harbor is one of Alanya's
happenin' night spots.

Eating in Alanya can be expensive. If you're on a budget, try to find a kofte (Turkish meatball) place, or a lokanta (a cafeteria-style restaurant) where locals typically eat. Anything along the harbor will always be expensive. Cheaper places can be found between Ataturk Caddesi and Gazipasa Caddesi, also along Damlatas Caddesi. Many restaurants charge a 10% service charge, so check before you leave a tip, or simply get it to go.

Biggest and best restaurants are on the Eastern beach and by the harbor, including The Doors, James Dean, Stanbul, and the Auditorium. Be warned that the prices of drinks in the night clubs may be insanely high.

Sarapsa Han looks like
something out of a time machine.
It's a great place for dinner and
lively traditional entertainment.

Sarapsa Hani

If you'd like a great show with dinner, try Sarapsa Hani, a Slejuk "han," or Caravanserai, built by sultan Giyaseddin Keyhusrev II in the 12th century. It used to serve as a resting place and staging post for travelers on the road between Alanya and Konya. Today it serves as a place of entertainment, fine dinners, and traditional dance and music shows. You'll find Sarapsa Hani on D-400 (the main road between Alanya and Manavgat), about 15 minutes drive west of Alanya.

There is a similar "han" called "alarahan," Built in 1231 AD. It is around 35 kilometers from Alanya. You can find it by driving west from Alanya, towards Manavgat. At the village of Okurcalar, Keep your eyes open for the "Alarahan" sign pointing North, and take that road. Proceed north and follow the signs for about 15 kilometers. Besides Turkish nights shows, there are other attractions there including the Alara Castle, Alara River, as well as restaurants and shops. If you need a break from the beach and the city, it's a pleasant way to spend the day.

Alanya Caves

Damlatas Cave

Near Cleopatra Beach, you can walk in to Damlatas cave behind the Damlatas Restaurant. The Damlatas Cave is open from 10:00 AM to sunset. The cave, with it's numerous dripping stalactites, is best known for its purported healing powers over asthma because if its constant 95% humidity, carbon dioxide levels, and natural ionization. It is said to cure asthma, and even local doctors prescribe a visit to their asthma patients.

Other Caves

The other caves around the promontory are accessed by boat, and there are plenty of party boats around the harbor waiting to take you to see them. Go just before they launch and act like you can't decide whether to go or not, then haggle down the price. These include Fosforlu Cave (Phosphorus Cave), known for its waters which glow because of chemicals in the water. Asiklar Magarasi (Lover's Cave) is higher-up from sea level. It's said that in 1965, two lovers evaded a massive search for them by the police and military by hiding in this cave for three months. Korasanlar Magarasi (Pirate's Cave), according to legend, is where pirates used to hide both themselves and their loot.

Alanya Beaches and Water Sports

Alanya's beaches are the main reason people go there. Alanya has two main beaches, to east and west or the promontory.

Western Beach

Also known as "Dalmatas Beach," after the Dalmatas Cave, this beach stretches three kilometers west of the city. It offers clean sand and various parks and fountains along its edge.

Eastern Beach

Also known as "Keykubad Beach" after the highway which runs right next to it. It stretches eight kilometers east of the city.

Cleopatra Beach

Probably the best beach in Alanya because of its sand and seclusion during the low season, is just below the fortress. Although there is no proof Cleopatra bathed there, the locals like to think so, and who are we to say she didn't? The city was given to Cleopatra by Marc Antony, so it's entirely possible.

Water sports are plentiful at Alanya's beaches, including jet skiing, parasailing, water skiing, and banana boat rides. If you'd like to scuba dive, visit the Dolphin Dive Center next to the harbor. You can also bungee-jump on the eastern side of the harbor.

Damlatas Aqua Center

Located on Hacihamdioglu Caddesi near Ataturk Bulvari, the Damlatas Aqua Center offers lots of water slides, tube slides, floating pools, and other wet and wild fun for the entire family. It's open from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM, Tel: 512 5944.

Day Trips

Besides the boat trips from the harbor around the promontory and to Cleopatra Beach, you can also easily go to the ancient and surprisingly-well preserved cities of Side, Perge, and Aspendos (where theatrical and musical performances are still held). Manavgat offers Jeep safaris into the mountains and mountain villages. There is an aquatic park west of Alanya on the D-400 coastal road called "Sealanya," which has shark and dolphin pools and other exhibits. To find it on our Alanya map you'll need to zoom out and/or move the map so you can view points west of Alanya.